Coming so close to the Afghan boarder was a bit of a shock i hadn`t expected it to be so close (could not quite throw a stone over to it ) we could easly shout to each other and wave as we often did over the next 5 days,
The road to kharog, (I was Bob Hope, Henry was Bing Crosby, a very pritty YAK played Dorothy Lamour) did not realy exist for most of the way they had just blown a track out of the cliff face , i did more of my stunt riding this time going through river crossings, one was spectacularly bad as my bike went vertical into a bolder field and i ended up 20ft from the river. Force field body armour saved the day (and also being bendy helped), as i was trapped under the bike with petrol pissing out all over me we had no time for the photo shot (pity it was the best so far) anyway the road Kharog takes you right to the Afgan border then follows it , after a too long day we found a nice camp spot by a 3 house road stop were they did realy nice food ,,,,, we decided to spend some time here as there was a fresh water spring and by now our ride kit was so smelly we scared the locals (and it takes a hell of a lot to scare a Tajiki) so the next day was big doby day.
THE GIRLS WERE DESPERATE TO HAVE THERE PHOTO TAKEN BUT IT WAS TOTALY TABOO, BUT GIRLS WILL BE GIRLS AND THEY MANAGED TO SNEAK OVER AND DO IT SECRETLY
While lazing about in the afternoon the locals came running over and told us to take cover !!!!! several loud explosions followed on the Afghan side and were were treated to a nice shower of rocks , the following day got more exiting!!! As some of you know when it gets hot i like to protect my baldy head from the sun by tying a scarf Arab style round my head, being now some what brown like the locals, some truck drivers came over to me shouting Mujahideen,Mujahideen and making gun type noises ,, i said were they shouted you you!! run army coming ME! NO MATE JUST TOURIST, just about draged the scarf off my head as two army patrols turned up from both ends of the Road-stop, Then it realy got exiting! after about an hour of the army being there they shouted us to take cover and started to run and yes more explosions and showerd by shrapnel but this time the bastards shredded my tent (At leased i had chance to grab my camera and get the vid) we had the same later on in the day but this time we had two belgium cyclists with us , the girl was very alarmed !!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3mApKEokuk click on link to see vid
We met these guys at 10,000ft not sure if they were rebels but we think they were the goverment troops, thought best not to ask (they were very friendly though)
After leaving our road camp we had tarmac to Kharog so we were there late morning , we moved on to the Wakhan valley, OH BOY DID LIFE GET EVEN HARDER, the road started off easy and suckered you in after about 50km the road surface stopped and it all turned to sand , gravel, rocks pebbles , snooker balls , marbels everything you can think of , AND YES MORE STUNT RIDING FOR ME ,
We ran out of energy about 7pm and just pulled over in a small village ,,,,, And out of the bushes jumped a bunch of Russian Ornithologists! all women !who invited us to tea , they were very exited about finding some thing very RARE called a large billed reed warbeler `` we said it TASTED VERY NICE!
The locals were out to see us off in the morning
GIRLS ALOUD featuring ronan keating.
On the road before 6am and travelling along the valley floor (at 8000ft), we got our first view of the Hindu kush and a hint of the splender to come
Once we reached the end of the valley floor, then the hard work realy began, we were treated to a track that started with half a dozen hairpin bends and a 1 in 4 angle up,,, made of every type of river cobble you can think of and a 1000ft drop just to keep it interesting!!!all you could do was hope you didn`t (1) LOOSE TRACKTION (2) MISS A GEAR (3) FALL OVER BACKWARDS (4)MEET A 60 TON TRUCK as its only single track (5) SHIT YOURSELF but we were doing that any way. THE NEXT SIX HOURS WERE THE HARDEST OF MY LIFE !!!!!!!BUT WHAT A VIEW OF THE HINDU KUSHWE MET THE CYCLE NUTS ON THE WAY DOWN FROM 15,400 FT IT HAD TAKEN THEM A WEEKAND YES THEY WERE ENGLISH
!!!!!!! IF THE SIX HOURS UP WERE THE HARDEST OF MY LIFE """""THEN THE FOUR HOURS DOWN WERE THE HARDEST OF MY LIFE TOO!!!!!